Half way through Java, it was time to pause for a sunrise inspection of the 1200 year old Buddhist temple at Borobudur.

My body is allergic to sunrises. However, after a stern talk with the complaining parts of my anatomy, all bits finally agreed to an early rise. Well worth it it was too. Not only does the mist in the surrounding lowlands provide a calming atmosphere to the temple, but you also avoid the grockles who arrive by the coachload a little later.

Once again though, Mr and Mrs Foreigner pay substantially more than Mr and Mrs Local for the pleasure of seeing exactly the same masonary work. Come the revolution, brother...

Borobudur with the bell-shaped stupas. Together with sunrise mist blanketing the surrounding palm tree lowlands.

To understand the kilometres of bas-relief around the lower tiers of the temple, this is one place where it is worth paying for, and suffering, a local guide.

Further down Java, just before the hop onto Bali, Bromo awaits. Ignore it at your peril. If Indonesia has to be summarised in one word, it would have to be "volcanic". And the treasure in the album would have to be the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park. In today's world, apart from a swift thump in the chest, there is not much left that truly takes your breath away. Bromo does. It includes two active volcanos, other peaks and a sand bed of lava ash, set in a refreshingly cool mountain climate.

To reach Bromo is not difficult. There are several approaches, but if you have your own transport, the lookout point at Penanjakan is most definitely your best option. (See Indonesian Country Info section.)

Another Indonesian sunrise. The mist amongst the Bromo National Park, just after dawn.

If that isn't worth a 4am roll out of bed, then you might as well stay horizontal below those covers for the rest of your life.